Kanazawa, the City Where Gold Leaf Is a Way of Life
Kanazawa, in Ishikawa Prefecture, is where virtually all of Japan's gold leaf is made today — 100% of domestic production comes from this one city.
It began 400 years ago, when the Edo shogunate established a licensing guild called the Hakuza and restricted gold leaf production to the cities of Edo and Kyoto. Even so, Kanazawa's artisans kept quietly hammering leaf under the protection of the Kaga domain.
That quiet persistence would later become the foundation of extraordinary skill.
When these restrictions were lifted in the Meiji era, Kanazawa's gold leaf industry grew rapidly, eventually coming to account for nearly all of Japan's production.
Fine water and the humid climate particular to the Hokuriku region — this leaf could only have been born here.
Entsuke Gold Leaf: A UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage
Making gold leaf begins with a small gold alloy disc, about the size of a coin.
Artisans hammer and stretch it again and again, until it spreads to roughly the size of a tatami mat — a single sheet just 0.0001 mm thick, one ten-thousandth of a millimeter, finished with perfect evenness across its entire surface.
One of the techniques behind this is known as entsuke gold leaf.
In 2020, the method was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Gold is sandwiched between sheets of hand-made gampi paper and hammered thin — paper that is itself painstaking to prepare, cured over many weeks with straw ash lye and persimmon tannin.
For the artisans, this paper is life itself — so precious that, according to local lore, if a fire broke out, the first thing to grab and carry to safety was the paper, not the gold.
The gold leaf produced this way carries the faintest trace of the paper's own fiber. It's this texture that lets applied leaf scatter light softly rather than reflecting it sharply — giving entsuke gold leaf its distinctive depth.
A Life Lived Alongside Gold Leaf
Hakuza was founded as a gold leaf manufacturer, and it still handles everything in-house — from producing the leaf itself to developing the products made with it. Today, only around 15 artisans in Kanazawa are able to hammer entsuke gold leaf. Hakuza believes that rare skill deserves a place beyond ceremony and decoration — in everyday life.
Mina Takaoka, who leads Hakuza, spends most of her time on a single question: what should gold leaf be paired with? Because Hakuza's approach starts from the goal of passing gold leaf on to future generations, she says it's essential to choose — with real care — the products and materials that let the gold leaf itself shine.
"I listen to what the gold leaf itself is telling me, and let that guide how it should be expressed."
— Mina Takaoka, Hakuza
Perhaps that quiet act of listening is, in the end, what Hakuza's craft is really about.
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